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I’ve been struggling with a video script for a&nbsp;while that's suffering from a massive case of scope creep

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and it’s bothering me so much that I decided to shelve it for now.

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But, when one door&nbsp;closes…

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this thing might be why!

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This is a door closer.

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You see these everywhere in commercial buildings&nbsp;
and they’re pretty simple devices.

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But there’s one thing about them not enough people seem to know:

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these&nbsp;are adjustable!

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You can change their closing speed
and speed them up to help a door which&nbsp;isn’t latching properly or,

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get this,

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slow it wayy down so the door stays open longer and it doesn't slam.

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Especially if you work in a hotel which is full of these
and also people sleeping, that's a&nbsp;really good thing to know!

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All you need is an Allen wrench or screwdriver
and someone to tell you how&nbsp;to do that.

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And I’ll happily play the role of that someone.

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I’ll also talk about why these are there in the first place,&nbsp;
how they work, and probably some other stuff.

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First, let me show you how to adjust these.

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Luckily, I have one installed on the door to the warehouse.

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Wait, you have a warehouse?

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Yep!

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wwwhy?

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For storing two of them, but that’s not important&nbsp;right now.

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We’re talking about door closers.

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So, this door, if I open it to 90 degrees then&nbsp;let it go, does this.

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It’s a nice and smooth swing all the way to the end and then,

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because&nbsp;there’s no latch hardware in the door right now,

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the door closer is the only thing holding&nbsp;the door shut.

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Which I’m pretty sure is a problem since this is a fire door
but I&nbsp;didn’t do that so don’t look at me.

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Now, if we look at the door closer body we’re going to&nbsp;find that there are
two little holes on the side with an Allen screw in each one.

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Sometimes there's a cover over the door closer body
so if you don't see it right away, you might have to take that cover off.

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The holes are&nbsp;labeled L and S.

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And of I tighten the one labeled S, watch what happens.

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Now, the door&nbsp;is closing very slowly.

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That is, until it’s almost shut.

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Once it’s at about 15&nbsp;degrees, suddenly it speeds up.

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Why’d it do that?

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Well, that’s kind of the whole point of those&nbsp;adjustments.

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Most door closers like this have two separate speeds:
a swing speed (sometimes called sweep speed) and a latch speed.

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That’s what the L&nbsp;and S stand for
(though they’re not always marked the same on every door closer).

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The swing speed,&nbsp;which is what I just adjusted,
is the speed at which it will close the door over the majority&nbsp;of its travel.

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You usually want this to be fairly slow to help people with mobility issues or&nbsp;just to make getting through the door easier when you’re holding stuff.

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And in many jurisdictions&nbsp;the swing speed is actually codified.

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The Americans with Disabilities Act requires
that the door take at&nbsp;least 5 seconds to close from 90 degrees.

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But when the door is about to shut, you&nbsp;might need it to speed up a bit
to ensure it has enough momentum to successfully engage the latch.

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And&nbsp;that’s what the latch speed adjustment is for.

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Right now the latch speed on this closer is pretty&nbsp;moderate.

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But if I loosen that adjustment screw, the door shuts with a pretty significant thud&nbsp;regardless of how slow the swing speed was.

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[THUD]

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And if I tighten that screw, well the door no longer slams&nbsp;at all.

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Instead it shuts very gently.

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You can even adjust these so that
the swing speed is faster&nbsp;than the latch speed.

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I don’t think there’s much reason to do that but if you did, the door&nbsp;would swing closed quickly but then slow down right near the end of its travel for a gentle close.

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And here’s what I’d really like to you&nbsp;to know:

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So long as the door will successfully latch under all conditions,
you can have these be&nbsp;as gentle as you like.

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They do not have to slam the door, and in fact the whole reason
this&nbsp;style of door closer exists is to keep that from happening!

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So if you install one of these and don’t&nbsp;actually adjust it to the door it's on,

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you’re making it very sad.

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But let’s back up a bit.

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Why do we want&nbsp;the door to close on its own anyway?

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Well, I already mentioned that this is a fire door&nbsp;
and that’s one of the main reasons.

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Fire, it turns out, is bad.

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There are some places&nbsp;where fire can be ok.

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Like for instance a fire… place.

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It’s really just called fire&nbsp;place, huh?

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Er, but where we don’t want it,
and especially when we don’t&nbsp;expect it, fire is really dangerous.

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And if a fire breaks out in a building, fire&nbsp;doors are incredibly important for life safety.

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They compartmentalize a building and keep fire&nbsp;
from spreading to other areas,

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both by being a physical barrier and by
restricting the supply of&nbsp;oxygen to the fire in progress.

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True fire doors can withstand the intense heat of a fire happening&nbsp;on the other side of them for more than an hour.

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But fire doors only work if the door is actually&nbsp;shut,

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so rather than let us forgetful humans forget to close them,
we put door closers&nbsp;on them so they always close by themselves.

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Fun fact, in situations where we want there to be&nbsp;
a self-closing fire door but we also want it to stay open during not-fires,

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electromagnetic door&nbsp;holder-openers can be installed alongside a door closer.

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When powered on, these door holders attract&nbsp;
a small metal plate attached to the door to… hold it open.

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This is useful in situations such as a&nbsp;building with a long hallway that you ordinarily want unbroken for an unimpeded flow of people

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but&nbsp;which should be compartmentalized in the event of a fire to reduce spreading.

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The electromagnets&nbsp;are tied to the building’s fire alarm system, so they can be released if it detects a fire in&nbsp;progress or someone activates it manually.

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When the system cuts power to those electromagnets&nbsp;throughout the building,

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they all let go of whatever doors they’re holding open
and the door&nbsp;closers close the doors.

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And of course this system is fail-safe - the door closers are&nbsp;
always trying to close the doors and the door needs to be actively held open,

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so if the holding&nbsp;system fails for any reason, the doors close.

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There are, of course, other reasons to keep&nbsp;doors shut.

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One of which is security.

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When there’s any kind of restricted access&nbsp;to a space,
even something as relatively low-security as an apartment building’s lobby,

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you generally want doors to lock automatically
and require a specific action to unlock them&nbsp;from the outside.

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But any automatic lock, even something as simple as
a keyed door&nbsp;knob which is always locked from the outside,

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is pretty useless if the door can be left open.

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So&nbsp;you slap on a door closer
to make sure that door always closes behind you and always locks.

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Of course you can defeat a door closer with a doorstop or...

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like, a brick but that takes a&nbsp;conscious effort and for people casually coming in and out throughout the day, the door&nbsp;closer ensures the building is secured.

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Actually, quick note about doorstops.

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They are the enemy&nbsp;of a secure building and also fire safety.

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The temptation to use them is the reason those&nbsp;
electromagnetic door holder opener thingies get installed.

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When the need to keep the door open is&nbsp;obvious
but the need for it to close in a fire is safety critical, they’re a great choice.

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But&nbsp;there are always going to be random situations
where you need a self-closing door to be held&nbsp;open,

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so certain people would like me to tell facilities managers
about delayed-action&nbsp;door closers.

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They exist!

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They act like any other door closer except when you open&nbsp;the door completely.

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When opened all the way, an internal mechanism is tripped which holds the&nbsp;door open for a minute or two.

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And then it will close.

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This is a great compromise for situations&nbsp;like helping workers who need to move bulky tables into an event space which has critical&nbsp;fire doors that cannot be left open.

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Alright and then the last major reason&nbsp;
to keep a door shut besides safety and security is energy.

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It costs money&nbsp;to keep buildings heated and cooled,

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and we’re not paying to heat the outside!

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So exterior doors often have door closers to make sure
nobody leaves them open and makes&nbsp;Dad angry.

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However, there’s a dual-role there in that case.

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Exterior doors, when left open,&nbsp;
can be a lovely supply of oxygen for fires

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so self-closing exterior doors are not strictly&nbsp;for energy saving purposes.

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But they sure help.

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Fun fact, the reason revolving doors exist
is&nbsp;because they are functional airlocks.

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High-traffic buildings in areas where it gets real cold
have&nbsp;them almost as a rule

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because the four panels of rotating glass mean the door is never actually open so&nbsp;there’s never a blast of cold air coming in as people enter and exit the building.

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Just little&nbsp;sections of air get exchanged.

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Of course there are accessibility concerns there so generally there&nbsp;are also standard doors with powered openers for those who need them,

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but you often find signage&nbsp;thanking you for using the revolving door if you can.

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Vestibules with a door on each end are&nbsp;
another way to achieve air locking -

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though in order to be truly effective both sets of doors&nbsp;
should never be open at the same time.

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And when the doors are automated, uh that happens a lot.

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I’d kind of like there to be a mode you can turn on in extreme cold which forces people to wait in&nbsp;the vestibule until the first door has closed

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but that would be confusing and potentially unsafe&nbsp;
so I can understand why I’ve never seen that.

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OK, so with all those particulars out of the way,&nbsp;
how is this thing actually closing the door?

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Well, the answer's simple:

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With a spring.

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In fact a simple spring is all you need to keep a&nbsp;door shut.

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If you put one somewhere such that it gets compressed as the door opens,
then the spring&nbsp;is gonna push the door shut once it's let go.

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And this here is a spring hinge!

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This is technically&nbsp;a door closer.

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Look, it even says UL listed door closer bod.

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Body.

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These are fairly common in&nbsp;household environments thanks to building codes.

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I have a couple on the door between my garage&nbsp;
and the rest of my home because that wall is a&nbsp;firewall

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and you really don’t want that door&nbsp;
left open in case there’s a car fire.

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Which can happen.

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These simple hinges contain&nbsp;a spring which is compressed as the hinge opens,

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meaning the hinge will always close unless&nbsp;
someone is actively pushing the door open.

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These work mostly fine but… they slam doors.

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Real&nbsp;bad.

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When the door is fully open and then let go,

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it consistently picks up speed as it travels&nbsp;
and by the end of its travel it’s moving quite fast.

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So when it meets the frame [SLAM] 
there’s&nbsp;quite a bang.

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That’s of course annoying but also can cause injuries if people get their&nbsp;fingers in the wrong place at the wrong time.

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That has even caused lawsuits when they were&nbsp;used in public places
and public fingers got publicly pinched in public.

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And besides that&nbsp;little issue, these don’t always latch the door.

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The spring in these isn’t very strong.

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I mean it&nbsp;seems quite strong when this isn't attached to a door but with the massive amount of leverage a&nbsp;door provides

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the spring hinges don’t push back with all that much force,
so if you let a door go&nbsp;when it’s already close to its closed position,

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these will hold it mostly shut but they may not&nbsp;
have enough oomph to actually engage the latch.

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So… eventually we got these things!

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These&nbsp;also have springs, but there’s a twist.

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A second mechanism is fighting the spring
to regulate the&nbsp;speed at which this closes the door.

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There were several different ways that was accomplished&nbsp;over the years,
and some of the alternatives to this one still survive.

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But this hydraulic&nbsp;mechanism is by far the most common we see today.

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The actual closing force is provided by a spring&nbsp;pushing on a sliding rack.

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That rack engages with a pinion gear which this arm is attached&nbsp;to.

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When I force the arm in this direction,

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the rotating pinion slides the rack such that&nbsp;the spring is compressed.

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And when I let go, the spring pushes the rack back in the other direction&nbsp;and the arm returns to its original position.

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But the rack the spring pushes on is also attached&nbsp;
to a piston inside a hydraulic cylinder filled with oil.

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And that’s where the speed control&nbsp;comes from.

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When you push the door open, a check valve opens
which allows the fluid to&nbsp;pass from one end of the cylinder to the other,

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thus the piston can travel through the hydraulic&nbsp;
fluid mostly unimpeded.

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But when it starts moving backwards via the force of the spring,

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that&nbsp;valve closes and now the piston is stuck.

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The hydraulic fluid has locked it in place.

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But there are two additional paths oil can take to move between the two halves of the&nbsp;cylinder.

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And those paths each have a valve inside which can restrict the flow of the fluid.

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And guess where those valves are?

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Here and here.

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The latch and swing speed adjustments
are in fact valves which, when turned,

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increase or decrease the speed at which fluid&nbsp;can flow through them.

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And that in turn restricts the speed of the closing mechanism.

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When you&nbsp;tighten these valves,
you restrict that flow more which slows the mechanism down.

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In fact you can&nbsp;completely close them and,
well, the door closer then becomes truly stuck.

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Or you can completely&nbsp;open them and then the spring is basically free to close the door as fast as it can.

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Careful,&nbsp;though, because you can remove these plugs
and that’ll let the hydraulic fluid out

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which is A)&nbsp;unpleasant and 2) will break the door closer.

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Actually, on that note, if you ever see one&nbsp;of these on a door 
with streaks of grossness coming down from it,

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the seals inside have probably&nbsp;failed and the hydraulic fluid leaked out.

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That door closer needs to be replaced if&nbsp;you don’t want it to slam because,
well, its damping mechanism is effectively gone.

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But anyway, the two different closing speeds are achieved
by the differing paths of the oil&nbsp;bypasses.

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During the bulk of the door’s travel, the latch speed bypass doesn’t actually do anything because&nbsp;both of its ports are on the pressurized side of the cylinder.

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But once the piston gets past this&nbsp;point, those ports are now on either side of it so they become a second bypass with its own dedicated&nbsp;speed setting.

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Pretty simple and pretty clever.

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But it’s not actually that simple.

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I want to make&nbsp;you aware of some particulars which are important to keep in mind both when making adjustments&nbsp;and when installing a door closer.

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For a start, these come in different sizes
which really&nbsp;just means different spring strength.

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The spring inside here is the only thing that actually&nbsp;
produces closing force so you need to make sure it provides the appropriate amount.

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Wider and&nbsp;bigger doors need stronger springs than smaller, narrower doors.

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And when you encounter a door&nbsp;that’s “heavy” -

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it’s likely got a door closer on there that’s just too big for it
and you can’t&nbsp;exert enough leverage to easily overcome the spring.

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Then again, some models - including this&nbsp;one - allow you to adjust the spring tension
so this is sold as sizes 1 through 4,

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appropriate for&nbsp;any interior door up to 3 feet six inches wide.

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Now, while the spring is the only thing directly&nbsp;providing closing force,

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thanks to our old pal momentum the door’s speed as it closes 
will&nbsp;affect its latching force and that’s why the latch speed adjustment exists.

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If there’s a door&nbsp;which needs a bit of a shove to positively latch,
this will give it that shove.

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If the latch&nbsp;operates smoothly and the door fits well within its frame,
that shouldn’t be necessary, though.

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The&nbsp;spring force alone will shut the door,
but there’s a weird extra thing to consider which is easy&nbsp;to miss:

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in modern buildings, HVAC systems can produce air pressure imbalances between rooms or&nbsp;between the inside and outside.

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If those pressure imbalances are significant enough, they can&nbsp;
overcome the spring force and keep the door from completely closing.

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This means that a door closer&nbsp;which gently and successfully latches a door in some conditions might not latch it when the HVAC&nbsp;system is running,

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and in that case you have to adjust it for the worst case scenario and there&nbsp;will be times it closes with a bit of a slam.

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And by the way, I have not touched the adjustments&nbsp;
on this door closer and watch how it behaves out of the box.

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Yeah, this would absolutely&nbsp;slam a door without adjusting the latch speed.

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But when you consider that the manufacturer&nbsp;of this is most concerned
with its products doing their basic job in as many situations&nbsp;as possible,

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it makes sense that they’d sell them
with the latch valve pretty wide&nbsp;open.

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They’re counting on the installers to make that adjustment when it’s possible,

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but lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of people just never touch it.

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Ask&nbsp;anyone who has ever stayed in a hotel.

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Fun fact, I used to work in the hotel industry

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and&nbsp;one of the first things I did at a new property when I had some time on a slow day

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was go around&nbsp;the building and adjust all the door closers
so they didn’t slam anymore.

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Almost none of them had&nbsp;been touched at all since the hotels were built,
so almost every guestroom door slammed shut&nbsp;with quite the bang.

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Same with the stairwell doors.

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And that’s pretty annoying in the middle of the night, 
so I simply&nbsp;took the time (which wasn’t that much time at all)

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to go around, open every door, and adjust the&nbsp;closers.

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I slowed them down as much as I could
while making sure that they latched properly,

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and then&nbsp;I sped them up just a tad to account for varying conditions.

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Some doors had trouble latching&nbsp;and I had to leave them slamming somewhat,
but I was able to silence the vast majority of&nbsp;the doors.

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It wasn’t much of a task, but nobody had thought to do that,

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and this is why you need&nbsp;a weird obsessive nerd somewhere on your staff!

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Now, to be honest, this bugbear of mine
is the&nbsp;main reason I made this entire video

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and mostly I’m concerned with people knowing
how to adjust&nbsp;door closers which already exist.

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But I would like to briefly talk about mounting these to a door&nbsp;
because that’s way more complicated than it seems at first glance.

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You’ll notice that the pinion&nbsp;gear which actually turns the door closer arm has attachments coming out on both the top and the bottom of&nbsp;the body.

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That’s because some doors are hinged on the right,
while others are hinged on the left,

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so&nbsp;which way you need the arm to swing will change.

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But also, you may need this installed on&nbsp;the push side of a door 
or the pull side of the door.

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And sometimes you need to mount&nbsp;the closer body to the frame of the door and other times you need to attach it to the door&nbsp;itself.

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And you’ll also need to decide if you want the door to only open to 90 degrees or&nbsp;if you want a full 180 degree swing.

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All of those factors change how you need to mount&nbsp;this,

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which linkages you need, and how long those linkages need to be,
and how they behave, and it’s confusing.

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These are&nbsp;the instructions for mounting this door closer,
and while it’s not rocket surgery&nbsp;it’s more involved than you’d think.

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And as with any rabbit hole you go down, it just keeps&nbsp;going.

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This is by far the most common type of door closer but there are many, many more.

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Some&nbsp;are installed in the floor so they can operate frameless doors,

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others are concealed within&nbsp;the door jamb which provides a sleeker look.

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I’m sure many of those are adjustable in the same way as this but
I’m gonna leave that to you to figure out.

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Oh right, and also many door closers have&nbsp;a back-check adjustment.

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Often labeled BC, that provides some speed restriction as you open&nbsp;the door.

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It generally only kicks in at the very end
of the door’s sweep to slow it down before it&nbsp;opens completely.

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This can be a necessary thing, especially on exterior doors which might&nbsp;fling open if the wind catches them,

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but it also prevents door flinging humans from damaging&nbsp;
your doors by stomping out particularly angrily.

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Then of course there are powered door closers&nbsp;which also open doors,

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often activated with a button near them.

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They use an electric motor&nbsp;to open the door and hold it open
 for a short while before letting it close again,

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which&nbsp;makes entering and exiting a building easier for wheelchair users or anyone who might need&nbsp;help with a door.

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You don’t often see those as much as you used to, at least in my area,

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since most&nbsp;businesses have chosen to have
fully automatic doors which respond to motion sensors,

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but&nbsp;they stick around in lots of places where traffic volume doesn’t justify going that&nbsp;far yet which require disability access.

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I’ve mostly been focusing on commercial door&nbsp;
closers but there are some common types you&nbsp;find at home.

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I already mentioned these spring hinges&nbsp;but if you’ve got a screen door it’s probably got one of these door closers on there so it&nbsp;doesn’t flap about in a storm.

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This is just a spring in a tube pulling on this stick,

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and&nbsp;when you pull the stick out the spring fights you and pulls the stick back inside.

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It uses&nbsp;air pressure to dampen the spring’s return, and even these are adjustable!

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At least, many&nbsp;of them are.

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This one has a screw at the back which you can tighten to restrict the flow of air leaving&nbsp;the cylinder which slows it down.

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But then at the end you get a little toot.

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[toot]

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Turns out this has a&nbsp;latching speed, too!

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Though that’s not adjustable.

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But at this point, I’m just rattling on so why&nbsp;don’t we
give this video a proper ending where it comes to a close?

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I had to, okay?

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I want&nbsp;to give a shout-out to Deviant Ollam who I reached out to
after watching this amazing&nbsp;talk of his on fire codes.

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I figured he’d probably have a good list of door closer&nbsp;
trivia and he delivered most excellently so thank you for your script consultancy.

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There&nbsp;are a lot of things in our everyday lives that are just… there
and you’re not gonna think of&nbsp;unless somebody brings them to your attention.

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And it is my sincere hope that at least a few&nbsp;facilities managers out there
(or just bored people who work in buildings)

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give their door closers a little love so they can stop annoying&nbsp;
people as they do their very important jobs.

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♫ adjustably smooth jazz ♫

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This might be why!

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This is…

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not gonna work.

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I screwed that uuuuuuup.

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...speed them up to help a door&nbsp;which isn’t lassing prop…

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[painful sigh]

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brrrr

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...and speed them up to help a door&nbsp;which isn’t lapping prop…

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crfff

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brrrp!

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So don’t look at me.

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Now, if we look at the door&nbsp;closer body.

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I don’t like that deliver AT all.

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And in fact the whole reason this style of [bleep]

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These do not have to slam the door!

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And in fact the whole reason they exist… I need to back&nbsp;
up because I skipped a very important caveat.

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…installing a door closer.

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00:23:18,056 --> 00:23:21,712
For a&nbsp;start [thud] these… well that was…

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00:23:23,059 --> 00:23:26,400
...wonderful. Good time was had by all, I'm pooped!

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00:23:26,400 --> 00:23:29,068
Yes, I should be - good lord what is happening in there?

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00:23:29,068 --> 00:23:31,847
See, now that's why you need door closers.

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To localize the aurora borealis entirely within the kitchen.

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It just makes sense!

